Blanc de Noirs: Champagne’s Black Beauty

Wine-Searcher published an interesting story that highlights the launch of Champagne Bollinger PN VZ15, while also examining why it isn’t common for Champagne Houses to list Blanc de Noirs on the label – as is the case with Bollinger’s new release. The short answer is consumer perception – Pinot Noir has cachet to stand on its own, whereas Chardonnay benefits from the “glamorous” Blanc de Blancs description.

Illustrating the Blanc de Blancs comparison further, the writer provides an entertaining anecdote from a consumer: “Madame, here is your Blanc de Blancs, pure Chardonnay,” said the sommelier, presenting the bottle. The screech of outrage nearly pinned her to the wall. “Chardonnay? I never asked for Chardonnay. I asked for Blanc de Blancs.”

After discussing variations of brands producing Blanc de Noirs, the story then focuses on Bollinger PN VZ15, which “is intended to be a baby brother for Vieilles Vignes Françaises, that rarest of rare wines.”

The write up breaks down details on the winemaking and philosophy, before declaring it “is glorious now: exotic on the nose, with notes of stone fruit, redcurrant and spice; a soft texture, very complex palate and a saline finish. It’s a taut but rich wine, fresh and succulent.”

The concept behind PN VZ15 came from a challenge from Cellar Master Gilles Descotes, who challenged his team to produce a pure expression of Pinot Noir focusing on one village and they’d pick the best blend in a blind tasting. As it turns out, Descotes’ blend came out on top.

“How do you get such complexity from a single village? By blending. Bollinger has 38 different plots in Verzenay, all with different exposures, and on four different soil types. That’s quite a lot to play with. And when you add in different vinifications – some in oak, some in steel – and reserve wines, you are constructing something in three dimensions. You can add more or less structure according to the slope, the ripeness and the soil.”

Read the rest of the story HERE